July 25, 2007
I am getting ready to leave Penza after a wonderful stay with my very good friends, Konstantin and Svetlana Ulanov. They have taken care of all my needs and are wonderful companions to discuss anything and everything about life in Russia. Right now I am typing in K's office (he is the principal of Lyceum #29) and we are preparing to return to his flat, pack, and board the night train back to Moscow. Tomorrow morning, I will fly back to New York and meet my lovely wife at JFK. Sometimes in Penza, it seems like I am in the United States. Things have changed a bit in three years.....for the better! More on the Penza visit after I return to the states! Many thanks to K and S for their warmth and hospitality this week!
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Sunday, July 22, 2007
I saw Lenin up close and almost personal!
July 22, 2007
I did the one thing that I've always wanted to do. Three years ago we went directly to Red Square and it was closed. It seems it takes at least a month to clean Red Square and get it ready for the big celebration for May 9th: Victory Day over the Fascists at the end of the Great Patriotic War. But today, even after an hour and half wait in a line of a thousand tourists, I got to see V.I. Lenin lying in state in his tomb, mausoleum. More on this later!
This morning we bussed to Red Square and waited in line to see Lenin. We gave all of our cameras and pocket paraphenalia to Nadia as we headed for the metal detectors. I went through the metal detector without incident. As I walked towards the mausoleum, there were Russian guards every 10 meters or so. On the stairs, the light of day faded and the black steps were difficult to see where you were stepping. An elderly lady was unsure of herself. Several of us stopped to help her. As we tried to talk, we were shushed by each of the guards even when we still tried to help the woman. As we entered the mausoleum, I had my hands in my pockets. A guard quickly motioned me to take my hands out of my pockets. No funny moves allowed in here! We were not allowed to stay and observe. We were encouraged to keep moving as we tried to get a good look at the preserved Soviet leader. Maybe I got to spend 20 seconds in the mausoleum itself. I was very quickly outside walking behind the tomb, looking at the busts of many former leaders of the Soviet Union, including Stalin, Brezhnev, and Frunzen whose statue had stood near the center of Vladimir. As long as we had waited, the rush of sights and observations in and around Lenin's Tomb were over in what seemed to be an instant!
We then toured the famous St. Basil's Cathedral. Amazingly enough, it is not one big space inside, but 13-15 smaller 'chapels,' each one under one of the domes of the cathedral. It was a labyrinth inside that was mainly set up as a museum, not a working church.
We were then bussed to the Old Arbat and the Hard Rock Cafe, tourist trap #1, but a good stop for more Christmas presents: Hard Rock t-shirts from Moscow are pretty cool! A small group of ours walked the Arbat, stopped for dinner. I had a chicken/veggie pizza and Coke Light. This meal was actually reasonable. I was surprised to be able to order so much food for so little in Moscow! We metroed to the Ismalovo Flea Market. I shopped and found everything that I had been interested in a few days before.
Our last evening in Moscow took us the CIRCUS. This circus is a privately owned circus, owned by the son of a famous clown and film star of the Soviet Union. There is a state owned circus that is having privatization issues. The circus we saw was wonderful! High trapeze, tumblers, clowns, dogs, and tigers to close! We had our last dinner together at a nice restaurant. I toasted my fellow Fulbrighters. All of them are great teachers, great travelers, and great people!! It was late farewell dinner. Ron gave us Soviet pins and banners, and, of course, questionairres to fill out.
Pack, sleep!
I did the one thing that I've always wanted to do. Three years ago we went directly to Red Square and it was closed. It seems it takes at least a month to clean Red Square and get it ready for the big celebration for May 9th: Victory Day over the Fascists at the end of the Great Patriotic War. But today, even after an hour and half wait in a line of a thousand tourists, I got to see V.I. Lenin lying in state in his tomb, mausoleum. More on this later!
This morning we bussed to Red Square and waited in line to see Lenin. We gave all of our cameras and pocket paraphenalia to Nadia as we headed for the metal detectors. I went through the metal detector without incident. As I walked towards the mausoleum, there were Russian guards every 10 meters or so. On the stairs, the light of day faded and the black steps were difficult to see where you were stepping. An elderly lady was unsure of herself. Several of us stopped to help her. As we tried to talk, we were shushed by each of the guards even when we still tried to help the woman. As we entered the mausoleum, I had my hands in my pockets. A guard quickly motioned me to take my hands out of my pockets. No funny moves allowed in here! We were not allowed to stay and observe. We were encouraged to keep moving as we tried to get a good look at the preserved Soviet leader. Maybe I got to spend 20 seconds in the mausoleum itself. I was very quickly outside walking behind the tomb, looking at the busts of many former leaders of the Soviet Union, including Stalin, Brezhnev, and Frunzen whose statue had stood near the center of Vladimir. As long as we had waited, the rush of sights and observations in and around Lenin's Tomb were over in what seemed to be an instant!
We then toured the famous St. Basil's Cathedral. Amazingly enough, it is not one big space inside, but 13-15 smaller 'chapels,' each one under one of the domes of the cathedral. It was a labyrinth inside that was mainly set up as a museum, not a working church.
We were then bussed to the Old Arbat and the Hard Rock Cafe, tourist trap #1, but a good stop for more Christmas presents: Hard Rock t-shirts from Moscow are pretty cool! A small group of ours walked the Arbat, stopped for dinner. I had a chicken/veggie pizza and Coke Light. This meal was actually reasonable. I was surprised to be able to order so much food for so little in Moscow! We metroed to the Ismalovo Flea Market. I shopped and found everything that I had been interested in a few days before.
Our last evening in Moscow took us the CIRCUS. This circus is a privately owned circus, owned by the son of a famous clown and film star of the Soviet Union. There is a state owned circus that is having privatization issues. The circus we saw was wonderful! High trapeze, tumblers, clowns, dogs, and tigers to close! We had our last dinner together at a nice restaurant. I toasted my fellow Fulbrighters. All of them are great teachers, great travelers, and great people!! It was late farewell dinner. Ron gave us Soviet pins and banners, and, of course, questionairres to fill out.
Pack, sleep!
Saturday, July 21, 2007
Moscow: One Expensive City!
July 21, 2007
Last night's evening was wonderful! Marina met me at my hotel and we went to downtown Moscow to find a nice place to eat. She guided us through the maze of subways. It isn't hard for Muscovites, but for the uninitiated, there are too many lines, too many colors, not enough signs even in Russian, and I'm glad I did not have to navigate them by myself. My wife knows that when given the choice, I usually make the wrong decision on turns and I would be going the wrong way most of my life!! I'm good with a map, but this country boy says the subways are for the city folk.
Anyway, we went straight down to Red Square (near it) and walked through many streets to Cafe Pushkin. It was a lovely restaurant with beautiful decorations and impeccable service. Never mind that I was paying $5 dollars for a small water. It was opened for me, poured for me, but I still had to drink it myself. A wonderful salad, a dish of lamb that melted in my mouth. Marina had trout and said it was very tasty. Ice cream and sorbet, tea and the bill! When I write about Murom in the days to come, you will realize what a contrast of lives are lived in this country. Here in Moscow was fabulous food, service, and bathrooms fit for a king, sorry tsar! Our group has been comparing toilets ever since we have arrived, most in a negative view! Marina caught up with all the news of our families, her job in Moscow, and her recent trip to Western Europe. A great evening of discussion food and the most expensive city in the world! Yes, that was a 20% value added tax added to that bill - OUCH!
Today, we toured the Kremlin, the Kremlin Museum, took a bus tour of the city, and visited the Museum to the Great Patriotic War (WW II). The WW II Museum is HUGE! I could have spent another hour reading and looking at the displays. The dioramas were HUGE and very impressive. I had been to the Kremlin and its museum but should add that it is there where one can see Faberge eggs, crowns of the tsars, thrones of the tsars, carriages of the tsars, coronation dresses of the lady tsars, the boots of Peter the Great and more! Dinner was Pizza and Coke Light for $3.50 a small bottle!! Did I say expensive? YES!
Last night's evening was wonderful! Marina met me at my hotel and we went to downtown Moscow to find a nice place to eat. She guided us through the maze of subways. It isn't hard for Muscovites, but for the uninitiated, there are too many lines, too many colors, not enough signs even in Russian, and I'm glad I did not have to navigate them by myself. My wife knows that when given the choice, I usually make the wrong decision on turns and I would be going the wrong way most of my life!! I'm good with a map, but this country boy says the subways are for the city folk.
Anyway, we went straight down to Red Square (near it) and walked through many streets to Cafe Pushkin. It was a lovely restaurant with beautiful decorations and impeccable service. Never mind that I was paying $5 dollars for a small water. It was opened for me, poured for me, but I still had to drink it myself. A wonderful salad, a dish of lamb that melted in my mouth. Marina had trout and said it was very tasty. Ice cream and sorbet, tea and the bill! When I write about Murom in the days to come, you will realize what a contrast of lives are lived in this country. Here in Moscow was fabulous food, service, and bathrooms fit for a king, sorry tsar! Our group has been comparing toilets ever since we have arrived, most in a negative view! Marina caught up with all the news of our families, her job in Moscow, and her recent trip to Western Europe. A great evening of discussion food and the most expensive city in the world! Yes, that was a 20% value added tax added to that bill - OUCH!
Today, we toured the Kremlin, the Kremlin Museum, took a bus tour of the city, and visited the Museum to the Great Patriotic War (WW II). The WW II Museum is HUGE! I could have spent another hour reading and looking at the displays. The dioramas were HUGE and very impressive. I had been to the Kremlin and its museum but should add that it is there where one can see Faberge eggs, crowns of the tsars, thrones of the tsars, carriages of the tsars, coronation dresses of the lady tsars, the boots of Peter the Great and more! Dinner was Pizza and Coke Light for $3.50 a small bottle!! Did I say expensive? YES!
Friday, July 20, 2007
Blogging backwards!
About yesterday - Thursday, July 19, 2007
Our van took us the summer palace of Catherine I, Peter the Great's wife! It was splendid! A mini - Versailles with many lovely surprises! The Amber Room was especially wonderful!
On our way back we stopped at the Memorial to the Defenders of Leningrad, a very special historical monument to the city from the siege of Leningrad during the Great Patriotic War. It was quite remarkable. On the outside, it was just a few statues. On the inside and underground, there was a marvelous set of historical collections and a film about the siege. It was moving and made you realize what this city went throught during WW II.
Time is up! Gotta go to dinner!
Our van took us the summer palace of Catherine I, Peter the Great's wife! It was splendid! A mini - Versailles with many lovely surprises! The Amber Room was especially wonderful!
On our way back we stopped at the Memorial to the Defenders of Leningrad, a very special historical monument to the city from the siege of Leningrad during the Great Patriotic War. It was quite remarkable. On the outside, it was just a few statues. On the inside and underground, there was a marvelous set of historical collections and a film about the siege. It was moving and made you realize what this city went throught during WW II.
Time is up! Gotta go to dinner!
Blogging in Russia is Hard with Cyrillic Alphabet!
July 20, 2007
So this computer thing is difficult when you can't read the words on the screen!! The blog worked in Vladimir, but the Internet Cafe in St. Petersburg wouldn't let me post any blogs. I thought I had lost two blogs, but only saved them as a draft. Now, I believe I just erased them totally from the blog site. It is frustrating typing all of this and not knowing whether or not it will post. I spent two dollars to use the Internet for 30 minutes and it may two dollars lost!!
We took the overnight train from St. Pete to Moscow and I slept pretty well. Got to the hotel, showered, and met the group to go to a discussion with an NGO called the New Eurasian Foundation. They support a variety of social issues in Russia, education being one of them. It was interesting to hear how many projects they have going and how many programs they support or work in conjunction with. They may have been the most positive people we have met since leaving Vladimir!
Spent the afternoon shopping at the big flea market on this end of town. I've decided to do some important Christmas shopping while I'm here. I know my family will have a truly Russian Christmas and they will love it. :)
This evening Marina Ulanova is meeting me at my hotel and we are going out for dinner to talk about her family, her new job, and to remember our last visit to Penza. She was our interpreter when we were in Penza. Of course, her father, Konstantin, exchanged taught with me three years ago and we have been in touch ever since. Konstantin has been back to the states three times since the fall of 2003 and we have recently hooked up webcams on both sides of the pond, connecting the students of our classes. We are planning a year long venture with many topics for our students to discuss and learn from each other.
Less than one minute on the clock. I hope this works better than in St. Petersburg!
So this computer thing is difficult when you can't read the words on the screen!! The blog worked in Vladimir, but the Internet Cafe in St. Petersburg wouldn't let me post any blogs. I thought I had lost two blogs, but only saved them as a draft. Now, I believe I just erased them totally from the blog site. It is frustrating typing all of this and not knowing whether or not it will post. I spent two dollars to use the Internet for 30 minutes and it may two dollars lost!!
We took the overnight train from St. Pete to Moscow and I slept pretty well. Got to the hotel, showered, and met the group to go to a discussion with an NGO called the New Eurasian Foundation. They support a variety of social issues in Russia, education being one of them. It was interesting to hear how many projects they have going and how many programs they support or work in conjunction with. They may have been the most positive people we have met since leaving Vladimir!
Spent the afternoon shopping at the big flea market on this end of town. I've decided to do some important Christmas shopping while I'm here. I know my family will have a truly Russian Christmas and they will love it. :)
This evening Marina Ulanova is meeting me at my hotel and we are going out for dinner to talk about her family, her new job, and to remember our last visit to Penza. She was our interpreter when we were in Penza. Of course, her father, Konstantin, exchanged taught with me three years ago and we have been in touch ever since. Konstantin has been back to the states three times since the fall of 2003 and we have recently hooked up webcams on both sides of the pond, connecting the students of our classes. We are planning a year long venture with many topics for our students to discuss and learn from each other.
Less than one minute on the clock. I hope this works better than in St. Petersburg!
Monday, July 9, 2007
July 9, 2007
Running with an Ipod in Russia is an odd thing. There is no one running in the morning. There are a few young people who have MP3 players on the bus. But no one has put the two activities together that I’ve seen at 7:00 in the morning. Most of the Russian women are on their way to work. Most of the men are smoking their cigarettes while waiting for the bus. They are not allowed to smoke on the bus. If they did, I would have found an alternative form of transportation in the morning and afternoon. The bus is already a dreaded activity twice a day. I long for my own car keys, my own climate control, my own music, my own seat to sit in, my own personal space. So, (how many Russians will start a sentence in English) I have put myself in a Russian’s shoes and I am giving the shoes back soon!
Our first class this morning was on Russian proverbs and trying to determine the state of the Russian soul! We determined that there are even more contradictions about this country than when we started! We discussed among ourselves most of the problems and carry-overs from the Soviet period.
Lunch was at the Golden Gates Restaurant: salad, cabbage soup, pork chops, potatoes, ice cream with tea. (chaikoo!!)
After lunch, we heard a speaker that had cancelled his lectures three times last week. He is 88 years old and a professor at the local Pedagogical University. He told great stories of his imprisonment by the Nazis and by the communists. He talked almost lovingly of Khruschchev who attempted to de-Stalinize the USSR. He was at several meetings and events when K was there. He discussed the role Brezhnev played after K. Fascinating! He was supportive of Gorbachev and supports Putin for the stability he has brought Russia. He is coming back tomorrow for an encore and so we can ask him questions. Questions have to be loud and he must come quite close so he can hear you, but the answers are priceless!
Our last discussion was on the role of women in Russia. Of course, there are many women who have had a tough time with men, the dominance of men in the system, and the lack of true equality. I made the observation yesterday at the dacha that a Russian mother’s work is never done! Ludmilla cooked and cleaned up after the whole family throughout the day! At our first meal, she didn’t even have a chance to sit down and join us. Some Russian women have managed to find the right husband and balance a job, the home, and a family, but it is a delicate act like many women in America. I have not been allowed to help much in the kitchen. I insisted on taking my dishes to the sink each meal. This evening, I was allowed to cook a bit only because I had brought Cream of Crab soup from Southern Maryland. I think they liked it, but it was a bit spicy for their taste buds! Olesya has also done the laundry without help and insisted on ironing shirts and pants even though they were headed to a suitcase and doomed to a future life of wrinkles. A Russian mother’s work is never done and the men seem to revel in their relaxation!
Some of us went to a B league soccer game between the Vladimir Torpedoes and the St. Petersburg Dynamos. It was raining through the first half harder and harder. We left at half time after a pretty girl won a prize…..or some such exciting Russian thing that happens at half time?? The score was 1 to 1. If the home team won, they could move into 2nd place and take home an extra $500! Stay tuned for the exciting outcome!
Running with an Ipod in Russia is an odd thing. There is no one running in the morning. There are a few young people who have MP3 players on the bus. But no one has put the two activities together that I’ve seen at 7:00 in the morning. Most of the Russian women are on their way to work. Most of the men are smoking their cigarettes while waiting for the bus. They are not allowed to smoke on the bus. If they did, I would have found an alternative form of transportation in the morning and afternoon. The bus is already a dreaded activity twice a day. I long for my own car keys, my own climate control, my own music, my own seat to sit in, my own personal space. So, (how many Russians will start a sentence in English) I have put myself in a Russian’s shoes and I am giving the shoes back soon!
Our first class this morning was on Russian proverbs and trying to determine the state of the Russian soul! We determined that there are even more contradictions about this country than when we started! We discussed among ourselves most of the problems and carry-overs from the Soviet period.
Lunch was at the Golden Gates Restaurant: salad, cabbage soup, pork chops, potatoes, ice cream with tea. (chaikoo!!)
After lunch, we heard a speaker that had cancelled his lectures three times last week. He is 88 years old and a professor at the local Pedagogical University. He told great stories of his imprisonment by the Nazis and by the communists. He talked almost lovingly of Khruschchev who attempted to de-Stalinize the USSR. He was at several meetings and events when K was there. He discussed the role Brezhnev played after K. Fascinating! He was supportive of Gorbachev and supports Putin for the stability he has brought Russia. He is coming back tomorrow for an encore and so we can ask him questions. Questions have to be loud and he must come quite close so he can hear you, but the answers are priceless!
Our last discussion was on the role of women in Russia. Of course, there are many women who have had a tough time with men, the dominance of men in the system, and the lack of true equality. I made the observation yesterday at the dacha that a Russian mother’s work is never done! Ludmilla cooked and cleaned up after the whole family throughout the day! At our first meal, she didn’t even have a chance to sit down and join us. Some Russian women have managed to find the right husband and balance a job, the home, and a family, but it is a delicate act like many women in America. I have not been allowed to help much in the kitchen. I insisted on taking my dishes to the sink each meal. This evening, I was allowed to cook a bit only because I had brought Cream of Crab soup from Southern Maryland. I think they liked it, but it was a bit spicy for their taste buds! Olesya has also done the laundry without help and insisted on ironing shirts and pants even though they were headed to a suitcase and doomed to a future life of wrinkles. A Russian mother’s work is never done and the men seem to revel in their relaxation!
Some of us went to a B league soccer game between the Vladimir Torpedoes and the St. Petersburg Dynamos. It was raining through the first half harder and harder. We left at half time after a pretty girl won a prize…..or some such exciting Russian thing that happens at half time?? The score was 1 to 1. If the home team won, they could move into 2nd place and take home an extra $500! Stay tuned for the exciting outcome!
July 8, 2007
Sunday at the dacha was great!! I slept in and had a leisurely zaftrak with my host family. We were driven to Olesya's parent's dacha near Suzdal by Alex's army buddy, Andre. Upon arrival, we ate salads, soup, and veggies. We were then off to the River Nerl for swimming. Alex is fond of 'diving' and dons a full wet suit with mask, snorkel, flippers, and SPEAR GUN! Fishing is serious business in Russia! He went looking for catfish of some Russian variety. The rest of us went into the 60 degree F water. Refreshing! After 15 minutes my thumbs were starting to feel that numbness. But overall it was a good swim!
After the swim, we prepared for the true Russian Banya experience! Basically it is a sauna, homemade, that gets a room over 100 degrees Celsius! So, five times we sit in the heat for 5 to ten minutes and then take a cold shower. One time we went to the river instead of the shower. The last time it was wash and scrub. Super clean by that time. What a rush!
After the Banya, shishkabobs of chicken wings, pork chops with more salad, cottage cheese Russian style, veggies, and cake. We toasted each other. Ludmilla and Igor (Olesya's parents) break the Russian mold. They are always smiling and talking and trying to make everyone comfortable! A wonderful day in rural Russia!
Sunday at the dacha was great!! I slept in and had a leisurely zaftrak with my host family. We were driven to Olesya's parent's dacha near Suzdal by Alex's army buddy, Andre. Upon arrival, we ate salads, soup, and veggies. We were then off to the River Nerl for swimming. Alex is fond of 'diving' and dons a full wet suit with mask, snorkel, flippers, and SPEAR GUN! Fishing is serious business in Russia! He went looking for catfish of some Russian variety. The rest of us went into the 60 degree F water. Refreshing! After 15 minutes my thumbs were starting to feel that numbness. But overall it was a good swim!
After the swim, we prepared for the true Russian Banya experience! Basically it is a sauna, homemade, that gets a room over 100 degrees Celsius! So, five times we sit in the heat for 5 to ten minutes and then take a cold shower. One time we went to the river instead of the shower. The last time it was wash and scrub. Super clean by that time. What a rush!
After the Banya, shishkabobs of chicken wings, pork chops with more salad, cottage cheese Russian style, veggies, and cake. We toasted each other. Ludmilla and Igor (Olesya's parents) break the Russian mold. They are always smiling and talking and trying to make everyone comfortable! A wonderful day in rural Russia!
Saturday, July 7, 2007
July 7, 2007
Today is 07/07/07!! Several Russians chose to get married today. We were touring several new hotels in the area and weddings and receptions were in full gear! Luck 7 day!
Roads in Russia: As a rule, they are bone crunchers! I had the extraordinary pleasure to sit in the back seat on a two-hour bus ride yesterday. Not fun. Air time out of my seat was measured in feet a few times! Digestion is easier this way. Kidneys got a real workout. Sleep was impossible. Today I beat everyone to the bus and sat near the front!
We visited a dairy farm today. To see the sights, we were asked to don blue suits like a team of surgeons preparing for a major surgery. We saw the cows and we saw the product of the cows (not the milk – the other). We trekked in it as we saw the milking area being prepared for milking. All that trouble to wear the suit (hat and booties included) just to see the cows and their milking area. The bonus came when they served us the dairy products that are produced by the milk: cheese, yogurt, kafir, cottage cheese, sour cream. Of course, my favorite was the strawberry and blueberry drinkable yogurt!
We then visited a rural farmer, some calling him a ‘peasant.’ He, in fact, called himself a peasant. We saw a few cows, some fields with potatoes and a house that we would describe as a ‘rancher.’ Going behind the house, there were plants, flowers, vegetables, turkeys, geese, a dog, fruit trees. What we did not notice right away was a table about 30 feet in length that was stocked full of all the bounty of a Russian rural farmer in the summer time! What was supposed to be a tea (chai) break turned into a major meal. Blini with blueberries, homemade rolls with berries inside, other larger rolls with other delicious tastes inside, cucumbers, tomatoes, cheese, ‘baked milk,’ tea, vodka, compote, kvass, potatoes, moonshine, honey, and more!! We were blown away! The family had originally balked at the idea of hosting some ‘outsiders’ but then when they made the decision to let us see their place, they decided the only thing to do was to do it up right! Many in our group were making comments like, “This is best Russian experience we’ve had!”
After seeing another hotel in the area we went for lunch. This will be the 5000 calorie day! Another new and fancy hotel followed by a stop at a ceramics producer and store, a little shopping and our day was coming to a quick end.
Olesya and Alex took me to her Granny’s dacha on the south side of town. Tea, cake, ice cream, and coffee were the bought snacks there. Alex and I started with the red raspberries that were ripe and moved through two rows eating the largest ones we could find. We scoured for strawberries, but they were mostly done. We found the cherry tree and took some samples and also tasted something I had never seen: goriviches?? (sp and pronun.??) They were like grapes growing on a bush with thorns, but they were not grapes. Some were green while others were turning a bit red. New species found in Russia today!
Grocery store: breakfast goods, a movie ($4), and toilet paper for a curious American in our group. More on that later! Home for sleeping and sleeping in on sleep-in Sunday!
Today is 07/07/07!! Several Russians chose to get married today. We were touring several new hotels in the area and weddings and receptions were in full gear! Luck 7 day!
Roads in Russia: As a rule, they are bone crunchers! I had the extraordinary pleasure to sit in the back seat on a two-hour bus ride yesterday. Not fun. Air time out of my seat was measured in feet a few times! Digestion is easier this way. Kidneys got a real workout. Sleep was impossible. Today I beat everyone to the bus and sat near the front!
We visited a dairy farm today. To see the sights, we were asked to don blue suits like a team of surgeons preparing for a major surgery. We saw the cows and we saw the product of the cows (not the milk – the other). We trekked in it as we saw the milking area being prepared for milking. All that trouble to wear the suit (hat and booties included) just to see the cows and their milking area. The bonus came when they served us the dairy products that are produced by the milk: cheese, yogurt, kafir, cottage cheese, sour cream. Of course, my favorite was the strawberry and blueberry drinkable yogurt!
We then visited a rural farmer, some calling him a ‘peasant.’ He, in fact, called himself a peasant. We saw a few cows, some fields with potatoes and a house that we would describe as a ‘rancher.’ Going behind the house, there were plants, flowers, vegetables, turkeys, geese, a dog, fruit trees. What we did not notice right away was a table about 30 feet in length that was stocked full of all the bounty of a Russian rural farmer in the summer time! What was supposed to be a tea (chai) break turned into a major meal. Blini with blueberries, homemade rolls with berries inside, other larger rolls with other delicious tastes inside, cucumbers, tomatoes, cheese, ‘baked milk,’ tea, vodka, compote, kvass, potatoes, moonshine, honey, and more!! We were blown away! The family had originally balked at the idea of hosting some ‘outsiders’ but then when they made the decision to let us see their place, they decided the only thing to do was to do it up right! Many in our group were making comments like, “This is best Russian experience we’ve had!”
After seeing another hotel in the area we went for lunch. This will be the 5000 calorie day! Another new and fancy hotel followed by a stop at a ceramics producer and store, a little shopping and our day was coming to a quick end.
Olesya and Alex took me to her Granny’s dacha on the south side of town. Tea, cake, ice cream, and coffee were the bought snacks there. Alex and I started with the red raspberries that were ripe and moved through two rows eating the largest ones we could find. We scoured for strawberries, but they were mostly done. We found the cherry tree and took some samples and also tasted something I had never seen: goriviches?? (sp and pronun.??) They were like grapes growing on a bush with thorns, but they were not grapes. Some were green while others were turning a bit red. New species found in Russia today!
Grocery store: breakfast goods, a movie ($4), and toilet paper for a curious American in our group. More on that later! Home for sleeping and sleeping in on sleep-in Sunday!
Friday, July 6, 2007
International Investment!
July 6, 2007
Russia is uncharacteristically warm! Shorts, t-shirts, and sandals are all that are needed. I have even seen some young Russians dress this way. Humidity levels are relatively low so that sunny days in the low 80s are very comfortable. As we traveled today, the shorts and tanks tops were coming out everywhere. There is a rumor going around that it will get cold soon, but I have no evidence to support that rumor! I’ve told Olesya that Russians have been spreading this rumor for hundreds of years in an attempt to keep other Westerners from coming to enjoy the fine weather in this country!
Today was international investment day. What countries have invested in Russia with businesses and factories in the Vladimir Region? Our first stop was in the town of Kirzhach, about halfway between the city of Vladimir and Moscow. There, a large, modern factory has been built by the Turkish people. The factory produces small, efficient washing machines and employs a few hundred people. Starting pay is 60 rublay an hour ($2.50). The monthly salary gained here would be more than teachers are paid in Russia! Most of the employees are women! They have some high expectations to gain more and more sales and profits over the next few years. The name of the factory is BEKO. Not a household word in the US, but becoming a household word in Europe and in Russia.
The next stop was absolutely amazing! I could have stayed and played there all day. We visited a dirigible manufacturer. You say, “What?” The building looked very plain as we arrived. We left the bus, not expecting anything unusual. When each of our group entered the building, all their eyes looked up, their mouths opened, their jaws dropped in astonishment! Inside were two ‘blimps’ like the ‘Goodyear’ blimp being readied for flight. They were held in place by sand bags and a truck with a large pole in the front of each blimp. It made me think that you were on a 007 movie set and James Bond was about to take a blimp for a daring ride to spy on the bad guys! Each of the cabs was being hooked up with controls, computers, and seating. No rides today. But what a neat job. The skin of the blimps was made by an American company. This Russian company was making it cheaper to fly over and use infrared for various purposes of land usage. Very exciting!
Lunch: Yes we're still in Russia: Salad (but shrimp today!), borscht with biscuits, potatoes, mushrooms, and some meat (I don’t know what kind – in Russia, it is meat – don’t ask what kind – it’s meat – that’s all you get – meat!) There was fresh fruit on the table and we snatched it up very quickly!
A brick factory is a very good thing to have in Russia right now. Imagine that 15 years ago, no one owned any property. Now, many Russians have property and want to build a larger house. Brick seems to be the right material that Russians want to build with. An Austrian company has built a brick factory near a clay pit and Moscow and is starting to reap the benefits.
Our last stop was at the home of Zhukovshy, the father of Soviet Aerodynamics. He was working on how to get something to fly around the same time the Wright Brothers were working on their flyer. The Russians seem to think that Z beat the Wright Brothers to flight. Some living history, some great tour guides, a Mig 17, and a nice home. I got to play the piano in the parlor!
In the evening, Olesya took me to the nearest fire department. I came with patches, shirts, and hats from the Hollywood, Maryland Volunteer Fire Department. I was instructed by John Gatton to just give them as gifts from America. If the Russians want to trade something for them, all the better. Firemen must be of the same mind all over the world. We met half a dozen firemen at the local fire department in Vladimir. They were surprised and shocked to see an American and to be getting gifts from an American! Two ran inside for patches to trade. I handed out patches, a hat, and two t-shirts. In return, I received three patches and a hat from the Russian fire department. The entire exchange with handshakes, trades, and some picture taking took all of ten minutes. Imagine how international relations could prosper if we spent ten minutes like this on the top levels of our countries! Fantastica!
Russia is uncharacteristically warm! Shorts, t-shirts, and sandals are all that are needed. I have even seen some young Russians dress this way. Humidity levels are relatively low so that sunny days in the low 80s are very comfortable. As we traveled today, the shorts and tanks tops were coming out everywhere. There is a rumor going around that it will get cold soon, but I have no evidence to support that rumor! I’ve told Olesya that Russians have been spreading this rumor for hundreds of years in an attempt to keep other Westerners from coming to enjoy the fine weather in this country!
Today was international investment day. What countries have invested in Russia with businesses and factories in the Vladimir Region? Our first stop was in the town of Kirzhach, about halfway between the city of Vladimir and Moscow. There, a large, modern factory has been built by the Turkish people. The factory produces small, efficient washing machines and employs a few hundred people. Starting pay is 60 rublay an hour ($2.50). The monthly salary gained here would be more than teachers are paid in Russia! Most of the employees are women! They have some high expectations to gain more and more sales and profits over the next few years. The name of the factory is BEKO. Not a household word in the US, but becoming a household word in Europe and in Russia.
The next stop was absolutely amazing! I could have stayed and played there all day. We visited a dirigible manufacturer. You say, “What?” The building looked very plain as we arrived. We left the bus, not expecting anything unusual. When each of our group entered the building, all their eyes looked up, their mouths opened, their jaws dropped in astonishment! Inside were two ‘blimps’ like the ‘Goodyear’ blimp being readied for flight. They were held in place by sand bags and a truck with a large pole in the front of each blimp. It made me think that you were on a 007 movie set and James Bond was about to take a blimp for a daring ride to spy on the bad guys! Each of the cabs was being hooked up with controls, computers, and seating. No rides today. But what a neat job. The skin of the blimps was made by an American company. This Russian company was making it cheaper to fly over and use infrared for various purposes of land usage. Very exciting!
Lunch: Yes we're still in Russia: Salad (but shrimp today!), borscht with biscuits, potatoes, mushrooms, and some meat (I don’t know what kind – in Russia, it is meat – don’t ask what kind – it’s meat – that’s all you get – meat!) There was fresh fruit on the table and we snatched it up very quickly!
A brick factory is a very good thing to have in Russia right now. Imagine that 15 years ago, no one owned any property. Now, many Russians have property and want to build a larger house. Brick seems to be the right material that Russians want to build with. An Austrian company has built a brick factory near a clay pit and Moscow and is starting to reap the benefits.
Our last stop was at the home of Zhukovshy, the father of Soviet Aerodynamics. He was working on how to get something to fly around the same time the Wright Brothers were working on their flyer. The Russians seem to think that Z beat the Wright Brothers to flight. Some living history, some great tour guides, a Mig 17, and a nice home. I got to play the piano in the parlor!
In the evening, Olesya took me to the nearest fire department. I came with patches, shirts, and hats from the Hollywood, Maryland Volunteer Fire Department. I was instructed by John Gatton to just give them as gifts from America. If the Russians want to trade something for them, all the better. Firemen must be of the same mind all over the world. We met half a dozen firemen at the local fire department in Vladimir. They were surprised and shocked to see an American and to be getting gifts from an American! Two ran inside for patches to trade. I handed out patches, a hat, and two t-shirts. In return, I received three patches and a hat from the Russian fire department. The entire exchange with handshakes, trades, and some picture taking took all of ten minutes. Imagine how international relations could prosper if we spent ten minutes like this on the top levels of our countries! Fantastica!
Thursday, July 5, 2007
Laws and Bribery: A tenuous mix!
July 5, 2007
Today dealt with law, law enforcement, lawyers, police, and jails! We heard about law enforcement in Russia from a retired general. We visited the police academy in Vladimir. After lunch we visited the jail in town. It was a rather uncomfortable feeling walking into a jail in Russia. We couldn’t take any bags or cameras with us. We had to leave our passports at the office. Are we staying for a while? We actually got a great tour of the jail’s museum that had some cool (klassna!) stuff! Francis Gary Powers of U2 fame was held here for a year or so in the early 1960s. Stalin’s son was held here on embezzlement charges and returned later after the death of his father! Our end of the day discussion was with two lawyers who have worked in the Russian system, one older, one younger. Both agreed that bribery was the way to get something done. It is a tremendous problem that goes all the way the Russian Supreme Court!
Something I neglected to mention the other night: I boarded the bus, as usual, prepared to deal with the loss of personal space on a new diminsion. I paid the ticket lady my 7 rublay (I got the ending correct!) and held on to the nearest pole. The next thing I knew, the ticket lady, who was like an overzealous discplinarian in the classroom, took the teenager near me out of his seat. He was in his upper teens with earphones on, a bookbag over his shoulder. The skin color he had was comparable to someone from Pakistan, but I guessed that he was what the Russians call Tatar, aremnant from the Mongols of 12th through the 14th centuries. My strong-willed ticket lady then, without listening to any protests from me, ushered me to his seat. I sat for three miles and my young Tatar was forced to stand for the rest of the bus ride. He did not protest or question the act. He merely stood quietly and waited for his stop. If this was America....incredible differences for racism and discrimination! Everyone else accepted it as the usual course of events! Rosa Parks to the Russian rescue!
Today dealt with law, law enforcement, lawyers, police, and jails! We heard about law enforcement in Russia from a retired general. We visited the police academy in Vladimir. After lunch we visited the jail in town. It was a rather uncomfortable feeling walking into a jail in Russia. We couldn’t take any bags or cameras with us. We had to leave our passports at the office. Are we staying for a while? We actually got a great tour of the jail’s museum that had some cool (klassna!) stuff! Francis Gary Powers of U2 fame was held here for a year or so in the early 1960s. Stalin’s son was held here on embezzlement charges and returned later after the death of his father! Our end of the day discussion was with two lawyers who have worked in the Russian system, one older, one younger. Both agreed that bribery was the way to get something done. It is a tremendous problem that goes all the way the Russian Supreme Court!
Something I neglected to mention the other night: I boarded the bus, as usual, prepared to deal with the loss of personal space on a new diminsion. I paid the ticket lady my 7 rublay (I got the ending correct!) and held on to the nearest pole. The next thing I knew, the ticket lady, who was like an overzealous discplinarian in the classroom, took the teenager near me out of his seat. He was in his upper teens with earphones on, a bookbag over his shoulder. The skin color he had was comparable to someone from Pakistan, but I guessed that he was what the Russians call Tatar, aremnant from the Mongols of 12th through the 14th centuries. My strong-willed ticket lady then, without listening to any protests from me, ushered me to his seat. I sat for three miles and my young Tatar was forced to stand for the rest of the bus ride. He did not protest or question the act. He merely stood quietly and waited for his stop. If this was America....incredible differences for racism and discrimination! Everyone else accepted it as the usual course of events! Rosa Parks to the Russian rescue!
Happy Birthday AH and America!
July 4, 2007
Happy Birthday America! Happy Birthday American Home! 231 years for the ‘old’ country! 15 years for the American Home! Everyone knows how to say Americanskaya Dom! The celebration started at 4:00 in the afternoon. So I’ll put it into chronological order below.
I had a fried egg for zaftrak (that’s breakfast for you non-Russian speakers). We had discussed the making of scrambled, but Olesya reverted to what she knew how to do best. Still good. The eggs are sold in the продукты store (that’s products) without being refrigerated! So when you cook an egg here, it will be cooked well done all the time!
Today we traveled to Gus-Krystalnaya, a center for producing crystal and glassware. The factory tour was fascinating with all the colors and shapes produced. I watched a glazier make a small heart shape pendant with a happy face on it. More souvenir stores than I needed, but the goal here is to help the Russian economy.
Lunch was the usual salad, soup, meat and potatoes. But when they brought the dessert out I balked. It was very similar to what Konstantin ordered for me three years ago – sneerg (snow). When your brain and taste buds are thinking chocolate, sweet, ice cream, you don’t want to flood your mouth with sour cream with prunes stuffed with nuts. So I left that dessert for another brave soul.
We toured a crystal museum that had once been a small cathedral. When converting it, they took off the domes and crosses on top (steeples) and changed some of the outward appearance. I didn’t even know that it was a cathedral until I saw the layout of the inside. Nice crystal; too bad for the church!
We returned by 4:00 for the BIG celebration at the American Home! Tents, tables of food, an Emcee, singers, bands, folk dancers, drinks of all kinds, games, prizes – the American Home celebrated with panache! Ron Pope was ‘immortalized’ by the staff of the American Home. Ron returned the favor, praising his staff as the best in the world! Galya and Alexei Antonen were astonishing hosts all evening! What great dancers they are together! The rain threatened and then poured and then died away for a wonderful evening of festivities! We sang Happy Birthday to the American Home, which was first dedicated on July 4th, 1992! What a success it has been to further the ties between our two countries!
Happy Birthday America! Happy Birthday American Home! 231 years for the ‘old’ country! 15 years for the American Home! Everyone knows how to say Americanskaya Dom! The celebration started at 4:00 in the afternoon. So I’ll put it into chronological order below.
I had a fried egg for zaftrak (that’s breakfast for you non-Russian speakers). We had discussed the making of scrambled, but Olesya reverted to what she knew how to do best. Still good. The eggs are sold in the продукты store (that’s products) without being refrigerated! So when you cook an egg here, it will be cooked well done all the time!
Today we traveled to Gus-Krystalnaya, a center for producing crystal and glassware. The factory tour was fascinating with all the colors and shapes produced. I watched a glazier make a small heart shape pendant with a happy face on it. More souvenir stores than I needed, but the goal here is to help the Russian economy.
Lunch was the usual salad, soup, meat and potatoes. But when they brought the dessert out I balked. It was very similar to what Konstantin ordered for me three years ago – sneerg (snow). When your brain and taste buds are thinking chocolate, sweet, ice cream, you don’t want to flood your mouth with sour cream with prunes stuffed with nuts. So I left that dessert for another brave soul.
We toured a crystal museum that had once been a small cathedral. When converting it, they took off the domes and crosses on top (steeples) and changed some of the outward appearance. I didn’t even know that it was a cathedral until I saw the layout of the inside. Nice crystal; too bad for the church!
We returned by 4:00 for the BIG celebration at the American Home! Tents, tables of food, an Emcee, singers, bands, folk dancers, drinks of all kinds, games, prizes – the American Home celebrated with panache! Ron Pope was ‘immortalized’ by the staff of the American Home. Ron returned the favor, praising his staff as the best in the world! Galya and Alexei Antonen were astonishing hosts all evening! What great dancers they are together! The rain threatened and then poured and then died away for a wonderful evening of festivities! We sang Happy Birthday to the American Home, which was first dedicated on July 4th, 1992! What a success it has been to further the ties between our two countries!
Wednesday, July 4, 2007
Religion and Globalization!
July 3, 2007
Today is Religion in Russia Day – that’s our topic of lectures and discussions. I am comfortable enough with running in the morning that I am even using my Ipod when I run. Running in the rain this morning was refreshing. How will I dry these clothes?
Our first class centered around the main holidays in Russia. Fist-fighting is a favorite pastime? We were shown a part of movie that showed hundreds of men lining up against hundreds of men. A whistle was blown and everybody began to punch each other. What fun! Where do I sign up?
Our second class was on Orthodoxy – religion or culture? We came to a 10% - 90% conclusion throughout the morning!
We lunched at ‘Shesh Besh’ a popular Armenian restaurant. The tastes and spices were a welcome change to the Russian lunches that have become too common.
A tour of the monastery and convent were interesting as the priest who spoke to us was VERY candid about everything. 80 years old and tellin’ it like it was! He claimed to be a product of the Soviet Union, but the culture led him to the church, faith, and the priesthood. We viewed the oldest icon in Vladimir – 12th century. Very well preserved. As the group was standing there with the lead nun, it was okay to take pictures. When Tom and I were the only ones left standing in front of the icon, another nun appeared and ordered us out without any more pictures to be taken!
Tonight it was globalization night! We had pizza at Sbarros, ice cream from Baskin Robbins, and shopping at ‘the mall’ just like in America! I taught my hostess another American favorite – I scream, We Scream, We all scream for ice cream! We walked through a new park with grassy areas and flowers and fountains near the mall (Trade Center). We headed to the park on the edge of town that overlooks the surrounding area. A Chinese group was making a lot of merriment and took lots of pictures of each other and with the young Russians who were out in the park. We all agreed that we probably need to start learning Chinese, and soon!
Today is Religion in Russia Day – that’s our topic of lectures and discussions. I am comfortable enough with running in the morning that I am even using my Ipod when I run. Running in the rain this morning was refreshing. How will I dry these clothes?
Our first class centered around the main holidays in Russia. Fist-fighting is a favorite pastime? We were shown a part of movie that showed hundreds of men lining up against hundreds of men. A whistle was blown and everybody began to punch each other. What fun! Where do I sign up?
Our second class was on Orthodoxy – religion or culture? We came to a 10% - 90% conclusion throughout the morning!
We lunched at ‘Shesh Besh’ a popular Armenian restaurant. The tastes and spices were a welcome change to the Russian lunches that have become too common.
A tour of the monastery and convent were interesting as the priest who spoke to us was VERY candid about everything. 80 years old and tellin’ it like it was! He claimed to be a product of the Soviet Union, but the culture led him to the church, faith, and the priesthood. We viewed the oldest icon in Vladimir – 12th century. Very well preserved. As the group was standing there with the lead nun, it was okay to take pictures. When Tom and I were the only ones left standing in front of the icon, another nun appeared and ordered us out without any more pictures to be taken!
Tonight it was globalization night! We had pizza at Sbarros, ice cream from Baskin Robbins, and shopping at ‘the mall’ just like in America! I taught my hostess another American favorite – I scream, We Scream, We all scream for ice cream! We walked through a new park with grassy areas and flowers and fountains near the mall (Trade Center). We headed to the park on the edge of town that overlooks the surrounding area. A Chinese group was making a lot of merriment and took lots of pictures of each other and with the young Russians who were out in the park. We all agreed that we probably need to start learning Chinese, and soon!
Educational Experience!
July 2, 2007
We all had a dacha story to tell this morning. Most stories were quite similar. Misha seemed to have the ‘best’ banya story to tell! Getting naked with the guys and drinking them under the table was quite satisfying to him!
The day’s subject was education. We heard a lecture about the facts and statistics on Russian education on the whole. We then visited an orphanage. 95% of the ‘orphans’ still have parents living in the vicinity. The parents were deemed not competent to care for them and they became wards of the state. Such caring and devoted people work there. I colored a bit with a boisterous 3 year old named Maxim! He made several attempts to color the lens on the camera instead of his coloring book that we had brought him. He was definitely an ‘outside of the lines’ colorer.
We then visited a kindergarten (ages 2 – 6) after lunch at the Hermitage ( a restaurant). The children were taking a nap and we did not get to interact with them. Later we discussed educational issues at the American Home. Had iced tea (YEA!) and we were on our way home. I paid for five of us to ride the bus so I could break a sto (100) rublay. Soup, salad, tea, sweets. Olga came home from grandma’s (Grandma is 43! Six years younger than me! Ugh) We went out for a walk and got ice cream. The nights are warm and comfortable!
We all had a dacha story to tell this morning. Most stories were quite similar. Misha seemed to have the ‘best’ banya story to tell! Getting naked with the guys and drinking them under the table was quite satisfying to him!
The day’s subject was education. We heard a lecture about the facts and statistics on Russian education on the whole. We then visited an orphanage. 95% of the ‘orphans’ still have parents living in the vicinity. The parents were deemed not competent to care for them and they became wards of the state. Such caring and devoted people work there. I colored a bit with a boisterous 3 year old named Maxim! He made several attempts to color the lens on the camera instead of his coloring book that we had brought him. He was definitely an ‘outside of the lines’ colorer.
We then visited a kindergarten (ages 2 – 6) after lunch at the Hermitage ( a restaurant). The children were taking a nap and we did not get to interact with them. Later we discussed educational issues at the American Home. Had iced tea (YEA!) and we were on our way home. I paid for five of us to ride the bus so I could break a sto (100) rublay. Soup, salad, tea, sweets. Olga came home from grandma’s (Grandma is 43! Six years younger than me! Ugh) We went out for a walk and got ice cream. The nights are warm and comfortable!
Dacha Day Two
July 1, 2007
Slept until 11:00. Alex’s father (an old “Cold Warrior”) comes to the door of the dacha and I greet him but he does not greet me. He asks Olesya who is in the bed and after he hears he pretty much ignores me and walks away!
The brownie mix I brought was a hit. We finished the rest for a late breakfast! We then went to the woods to pick wild strawberries and blueberries. I am now fluent in Russian berries! Had tea when we returned and then decided to take a tour of the dacha community. All shapes and sizes. One had vinyl siding, stone walkways, a pond, a bricked area that begged for a big grill and everything in its place! Most were less than impressive. But our dacha was comfortable and ‘cozy!’ Had an early dinner of soup with beef, salad, veggies, bread, and wine. We packed up, cleaned up, watered the plants (they must ask for the water to be turned on for usage), and waited for the taxi to pick us up. While waiting, there was one dacha that displayed a Soviet flag prominently. Tea and sweets and to bed!
Slept until 11:00. Alex’s father (an old “Cold Warrior”) comes to the door of the dacha and I greet him but he does not greet me. He asks Olesya who is in the bed and after he hears he pretty much ignores me and walks away!
The brownie mix I brought was a hit. We finished the rest for a late breakfast! We then went to the woods to pick wild strawberries and blueberries. I am now fluent in Russian berries! Had tea when we returned and then decided to take a tour of the dacha community. All shapes and sizes. One had vinyl siding, stone walkways, a pond, a bricked area that begged for a big grill and everything in its place! Most were less than impressive. But our dacha was comfortable and ‘cozy!’ Had an early dinner of soup with beef, salad, veggies, bread, and wine. We packed up, cleaned up, watered the plants (they must ask for the water to be turned on for usage), and waited for the taxi to pick us up. While waiting, there was one dacha that displayed a Soviet flag prominently. Tea and sweets and to bed!
Sunday, July 1, 2007
Suzdal и Bogolubova
June 29, 2007
Once again the Russian busses are packed and difficult to board, ride, and pay for the ride. There are so many commuters heading the same way that it becomes a 20 minute sauna with 50 people who do little talking and mostly staring straight ahead of themselves! I went on the bus all by myself! I am finding out how to be a stern Russian in public. A product of 75 years of Soviet life!
Our daily language lessons are beginning to bring back some of the headway I had made into the Russian language three years ago! However, there are some inconsistencies I have found. Maybe I missed something before, but the small m that I remember making an mmmm sound for has now somehow changed into the ‘t’ sound. Some of the ‘g’ sounds are substituted with a ‘v’ sound. But that is the only problem so far.
Sometimes I think of American food and drink too much and I miss it much too much at this point. Fantasizing about a tall glass of iced tea with plenty of ice just frustrates me even more. I bought Nestea little mixes for a small bottle of water. DO NOT…. I repeat DO NOT under any circumstances mix one of those with a bottle of water that says ‘mineral’ water (carbonated). Yes, I made a small mess at my seat today at lunch. I did manage to have some fairly interesting tea. No ice, but tea flavored, partly carbonated brown drink. I’ll be working on that situation.
Another class on Russian crafts was very interesting. Dolls, jewelry, scarves, towels, porelain, and more were shared.
We took the bus to Suzdal, an historic city with 120 churches! There were many monasteries as
well. Most of the churches date back to the 12th century. We heard a quintet of men sing in one of the churches. The acoustics were amazing. I think we better get rid of all the carpets and seats at GSPC and install stone as soon as possible. I also saw a man play 20 bells all at once in the top of one of the churches. It had an interesting sound. In Suzdal we had a very good lunch with salad, blini stuffed with fish, soup, pelmenie (sp?) and black tea. It was the best lunch yet! The market square offered 30 vendors or so, some things actually of interest. But I still haven’t bought anything yet. I had my fill of those ‘Russian’ things three years ago. I am a more conservative souvenir hunter now! We also visited a Wooden House Museum which was a small community of all sorts of houses made of wood representing every style in Russia. There were also two wooden Russian churches on the grounds. All the buildings had been deconstructed carefully, brought to this site, and reconstructed exactly as it had been before. Way cool!
We also visited Bogolubova a town with two more 12th century churches. One, the Church of the Intercession was at the end of a mile hike through the fields and walkways. We had quite a sight going and also when we arrived. The cube style of architecture using limestone was BIG in the 12th century!
After returning to my flat, my host family gathered their things, called a taxi, and headed for their dacha for the rest of the weekend. Their dacha, as it turned out, was a comfy little cabin sitting on approximately a quarter of an acre. It has two stories, a porch for sitting and a porch to keep fire wood dry. The grounds are filled with flowers, strawberries, fruit trees, and vegetables. Two friends from Moscow joined us, Anna and Genya. Anna spoke English so it was enjoyable to talk about her job in an American pharmaceutical firm in Moscow. We ate, drank vodka, grilled chicken and pork, and had a grand time. Apparently we had TOO good of a time and our English attracted some young (we’ll call them) “hotheads” who wanted to ‘gawk’ at the American curiosity. We were able to discuss some things with them. When I gave them the topic of Bush and the Iraq war, thinking that we could all agree that war is bad and the American president has gone way over the line in international affairs, they could not speak about it and had no opinion. I was disappointed that I did not get the reaction I thought I would get. They left without fanfare and some shaking of hands. They did not impress any of us and one could tell that they made the Moscow folks a bit uneasy! Again I did not realize what time it was and I went to bed a little before 2:00AM!
Once again the Russian busses are packed and difficult to board, ride, and pay for the ride. There are so many commuters heading the same way that it becomes a 20 minute sauna with 50 people who do little talking and mostly staring straight ahead of themselves! I went on the bus all by myself! I am finding out how to be a stern Russian in public. A product of 75 years of Soviet life!
Our daily language lessons are beginning to bring back some of the headway I had made into the Russian language three years ago! However, there are some inconsistencies I have found. Maybe I missed something before, but the small m that I remember making an mmmm sound for has now somehow changed into the ‘t’ sound. Some of the ‘g’ sounds are substituted with a ‘v’ sound. But that is the only problem so far.
Sometimes I think of American food and drink too much and I miss it much too much at this point. Fantasizing about a tall glass of iced tea with plenty of ice just frustrates me even more. I bought Nestea little mixes for a small bottle of water. DO NOT…. I repeat DO NOT under any circumstances mix one of those with a bottle of water that says ‘mineral’ water (carbonated). Yes, I made a small mess at my seat today at lunch. I did manage to have some fairly interesting tea. No ice, but tea flavored, partly carbonated brown drink. I’ll be working on that situation.
Another class on Russian crafts was very interesting. Dolls, jewelry, scarves, towels, porelain, and more were shared.
We took the bus to Suzdal, an historic city with 120 churches! There were many monasteries as
well. Most of the churches date back to the 12th century. We heard a quintet of men sing in one of the churches. The acoustics were amazing. I think we better get rid of all the carpets and seats at GSPC and install stone as soon as possible. I also saw a man play 20 bells all at once in the top of one of the churches. It had an interesting sound. In Suzdal we had a very good lunch with salad, blini stuffed with fish, soup, pelmenie (sp?) and black tea. It was the best lunch yet! The market square offered 30 vendors or so, some things actually of interest. But I still haven’t bought anything yet. I had my fill of those ‘Russian’ things three years ago. I am a more conservative souvenir hunter now! We also visited a Wooden House Museum which was a small community of all sorts of houses made of wood representing every style in Russia. There were also two wooden Russian churches on the grounds. All the buildings had been deconstructed carefully, brought to this site, and reconstructed exactly as it had been before. Way cool!
We also visited Bogolubova a town with two more 12th century churches. One, the Church of the Intercession was at the end of a mile hike through the fields and walkways. We had quite a sight going and also when we arrived. The cube style of architecture using limestone was BIG in the 12th century!
After returning to my flat, my host family gathered their things, called a taxi, and headed for their dacha for the rest of the weekend. Their dacha, as it turned out, was a comfy little cabin sitting on approximately a quarter of an acre. It has two stories, a porch for sitting and a porch to keep fire wood dry. The grounds are filled with flowers, strawberries, fruit trees, and vegetables. Two friends from Moscow joined us, Anna and Genya. Anna spoke English so it was enjoyable to talk about her job in an American pharmaceutical firm in Moscow. We ate, drank vodka, grilled chicken and pork, and had a grand time. Apparently we had TOO good of a time and our English attracted some young (we’ll call them) “hotheads” who wanted to ‘gawk’ at the American curiosity. We were able to discuss some things with them. When I gave them the topic of Bush and the Iraq war, thinking that we could all agree that war is bad and the American president has gone way over the line in international affairs, they could not speak about it and had no opinion. I was disappointed that I did not get the reaction I thought I would get. They left without fanfare and some shaking of hands. They did not impress any of us and one could tell that they made the Moscow folks a bit uneasy! Again I did not realize what time it was and I went to bed a little before 2:00AM!
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